Summary

This is a derivative of Photonix's YAGI frame. I converted from STL to DWG and then traced out the spots that needed cutting. It does not have letters or numbers on it, only the basic cuts that are functional.
Please see the original http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19548

Instructions

Cut on a laser cutter from 1/8" (3mm) plexiglass.  I've made some from 1/4" plywood which also works well, but probably wouldn't hold up if exposed to outdoor conditions for an extended period.You want to place the center of this object at the point on the rubber-duckie that is where the center conductor of the coax emerges from the shield.  I pulled the cover off the antenna to make sure where this spot was, then the cover snapped back on with no ill effects.This is a plain DXF, so it should be a simple matter to customize to your needs.  The large hole is where the rubber-duckie antenna goes.  This one is sized for a D-Link brand antenna from a DWL-800 Access point.  You may need to adjust the diameter of this hole to get a snug fit at the proper height for your particular antenna.Also you'll need to adjust the size of the holes for the copper wire.  This will be very dependent on the material you cut from and from the properties of your laser cutter.  Here are some sizes that worked well for me, giving a "press fit".

AWG...........Wire.............Crosssection.
Size.......Dia(mm)............Area(mm^2).......Hole Size(mm)
17...............1.17..................1.04...................1.05
14...............1.65..................2.08...................1.45
12...............2.05..................3.31...................1.85 (3mm Plexiglass)
12...............2.05..................3.31...................1.70 (6mm Plywood)

The first photo shows my latest effort which is built on a plexiglass frame with 12-gauge wire.  The 2nd photo shows one cut from plexiglass with 17 ga wire elements.  The third photo shows the rubber-duckie antenna disassembled and mid-line point marked.  Last photo shows a 1/4" plywood antenna reassembled and yagi frame attached over proper spot.  No reflective or directive elements are shown in yagi frame to simplify the photo, just the antenna and the frame.The DXF file that has two frames in it has the holes sized for 17 gauge wire.  The DXF that has three frames in it has the holes sized for 12 gauge wire.  The DXF file with the holes is a calibration piece to test what size hole will make a tight fit on the wire you have.  The holes are in 0.05 increments from 1.0 to 2.2 mm diameter.  The units for all of the DXF files is millimeters.I added another photo of one made with 12-gauge wire.  I like this one much better because the wire is stiffer and straighter to begin with, and it's easier to keep it straight.  I used a BASIC program written by DL6WU (amateur radio callsign) to calculate the element lengths for 12-gauge wire.  Another advantage of thicker wire is that the bandwidth will be a little wider.  I cut the wires about 0.5 - 1.0 mm longer than called for, then used a sharpening stone to hone down the wire length to within 0.1 mm using a vernier caliper - see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26258.  Once I inserted each wire, I used a ruler to get each wire centered in the frame (say, within 0.5 mm).  Here is a table of the wire lengths I used for 12-gauge wire:

59.1.......reflector
50.9.......1st director
50.1.......2nd director
49.3.......3rd director
48.6.......4th director
47.9.......5th director

The positions of the directors and reflector matched up very well with the program output so I didn't change any of the hole locations from the original design by Photonix.

It makes a noticeable improvement, but I don't have the resources to measure the gain provided by this antenna, so I would be interested in hearing from anyone who builds one who does have equipment to measure the gain. I have gotten a good signal with a laptop (using its built-in antenna) at a distance of 700 feet (over 200 meters) from the access point.

Yagi WLAN Antenna Booster - Laser-Cut