Background

While working on a charity: Sleep In Heavenly Peace Syracuse NY bed build event, I was assigned to the "clean-up" station, in which I was doing the finial touch-up of the head-boards. One of the operations, required countersinking the bolt-holes for the head-boards, required some finesse. The countersink tool is aggressive and I believe designed to work in a drill-press. It would "grab" and drill deeper than I intended... so I started thinking of solutions (engineer always! ).

I have settled on a single version (design 3) of this ... It requires a 6000 bearing for each depth stop. These can be sourced from wherever you buy bearings (or Amazon).
Design three uses industry standard "6000" bearings. Selected due to it internal bore is large-enough to print the 1/4" hex collar without being brittle, and due to it low cost (<$1 when buying in boxes of 10).

The Counterbore bit is a 5/16" x 3/4" 3-flute counterbore with a 1/4" counterbore. Amazon link (You can find it less expensive other sites on the internet).

Due to popular (blue-shirt) demand (from the few folks who have seen this in action), I am uploading my design to allow other chapters of Sleep in Heavenly Peace to start printing and using them.

Design 3 -- The "6000"

Use this one, if you need to buy a bearing, and are buying it online I would only use the second design if I had a bunch of 608 bearing handy.
This version uses a different bearing, allowing a full collar instead of brittle little fingers. I chose a inexpensive one, I found them for $1 apiece when buying in lots of 10 from Amazon. The bearing is model 6000. I would get one that is sealed to keep the saw-dust out. You may need to do some small scaling with your slicer to get the sizes correct. For my printer the bearing easily presses into the Depth stop, and the collar presses in to the bearing. Little to no post processing needed other than snapping the support off.

Let me know if you have any suggestions or need help getting a design to print.

Paul

After watching the 6000 Model being used for building a couple of thousand head-boards, I have made some refinements in the slicer settings that should make this more robust and easier to print.

1) wall, top and bottom thickness 2.4 MM -- I was printing with a wall thickness of 1MM which gets rounded down to .8 mm. These sometimes failed after a lot of use.

2) I flip the outside piece upside down and print it without supports. The bearing surface comes out cleaner.

3) I have been using 20% infill, but it could be higher if you have issues.

Print one check to see that the press-fit of the bearing is tight, but not too tight. If necessary scale the slicer settings to get it to fit nice and snug but not impossible to assemble. The same goes for the bearing collar... but this is a little less critical since it is held in place by the drill chuck.