Iron Giant 5-foot With Beskar finish
Thank you EMA_Labs for your thingiverse files located here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/EMA_Labs/designs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5393487.
I hope the following Youtube videos answer any questions you may have, if not, you can figure it out. Other than Tinkercad... I don't know any of the 3D design programs. This despite owning all of the editing programs but am feeling it's over my head to try and learn. So I know the rest of you smart folks can get this stuff figured out.
https://youtube.com/shorts/QA8qApvDmd8?si=a-w8dBj872n9JdsV
https://youtube.com/shorts/luLSbkj_vsg?si=H8BvuGYEJ8cjlp2F
https://youtube.com/shorts/BSeeHtK42zg?si=5M9FSyeBQYjsKHHE
https://youtube.com/shorts/cN7EEQvyITk?si=OrvawIy0lZfdvy6i
Update: Now that I consider it finished March 2026 let me mention the following. "Creality K1 Max" is an amazing machine but I’ve got room for improvement in operating it.
The final finish is great for scrapes, scuffs, gouges, scratches, etc. Just go back and rub in some graphite powder and it is fixed. Or leave it to look worn and used. It's your creation, make it your way.
Smoke machine has its own battery supply; rechargeable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1QF8Y3Z?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-2-in-1-Primer-12-oz/17130272
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DBZ9XMFX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTTYKGS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083RCGKMQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4K53GF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHMS51P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5CVJGYF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096XJWZJQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H7QVHF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8NT6M1M?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_7&th=1
29 LEDs are all powered by one 9v battery. Alternatively it can be plugged into a wall outlet 110v via a 9v converter power supply (with the proper barrel connector). The eyes each hold 9 LEDs (18 total). You could easily make most the pulsing yellow/white color LEDs with red LEDs. Then add your switching method for when he is happy or mad.
The 9v fits into part of the red box power distribution I hacked together. The 9v can sit in its fitted case and that fits into the top of the other open red box. I wired a barrel plug receiver (female) into the setup so that you can use a wall outlet converter to barrel connector. I have a bag of old power supplies with various voltage outputs; 5 v, 9v, 12v, 24v, and 48v from discarded desk phone, answering machine, MP3 player… whatever. I try not to throw useful things in the trash. My plan is to keep my mini smoke machine in its proper mounting spot, then put two drops of your glue of choice to the far right side of the power box. Far right corner with the thin shelf portion of the 9v holder lies on top and the box with box shaped part is glued to the far fight edge of the already mounted red boxes.Fits perfectly, almost like that was the plan all along. I will be keeping the smoke machine because I think an old robot would smoke from time to time. I can turn the smoke on remotely just like the LEDs.
You’ll need a 9v battery connector with the other end being a barrel connector. Match your female barrel connector size to the 9v battery then to barrel connector. I’m not going to bother with explaining how to solder, wire, circuitry, positive, negative, ground, live, etc.
I’m a moron, so I know you educated folks will figure this out. I need to triple check the STLs I uploaded to be sure that they are the final configuration.
Should be five foot three inches tall after enlarging all parts 700%. In some of the more recent photos, it appears that he is floating... mid step. There are metal pads for its feet to rest. This to keep them posed as I wanted; the foot rests have a lip folded in to keep the feet from shifting forward/backward. The foot rests are welded to the frame with a single piece of 1/8" bar stock from foot rest to the frame... so it is hidden from view but still solidly mounted.
I had to make several changes to the original design to get things to assemble correctly. Changed the joint pins to basically a nut/bolt instead. Ball joint connecting points did not fit together after being enlarged... had to be slightly altered to fit into each other and still function as a movable part. There are two braces that I'm trying out so that I can position the arm swing in a locked position (posable). They are a clamshell design that screw together around the biceps; rough idea.
The head has an intentional gap of about 1 mm +/-. My hope was that the two LEDs in the middle of his head would shine through the gap; forming a mouth. Also being hopeful that I get smoke out the slit at the mouth. You just see two LEDs shining straight up into his brain. Fill the gap or don’t, your call.
Chest waist pivot will fit without alteration from the original file but you will have to carefully use a heat gun to soften the slotted part so it will bend... not break. This is the part that holds the torso/chest to the waist, allowing them to pivot around the center pin. I've added a cut version of the waist pivot so that you can epoxy the pivot in place... one side at a time. You can figure it out; 'waist pivot cut'.
My first head install consisted of epoxying the torso parts together with the head ball-socket inserted into its final position. The head physically could not be inserted into the neck cavity after the torso was epoxied together. Assembling the head this way makes it impossible to remove the head... without breaking the head into smaller pieces. I know this because I had to break the first head back out and redesign the ball-socket so I could install the head after completing my planned wiring.
Added small tunnels to allow me to run wires for the multiple LED lights within the torso. All intersect in the back of the torso (see red box mounted on the back). The red box is to contain all the wiring and electronics. Poor planning on my part and should have made the built-in junction box on the back larger but now I guess you can fix it at your leisure. Here I wired in all 29 LEDs, and room to either a 9 volt battery or in my case, a mini smoke machine to a flex line so I can make smoke emanate from the mouth and head... remotely. I added a barrel connector so that you can use a wall plug power supply, instead of a 9 volt battery. The red box has a cover to hold the 9 volt battery or remove it to house the mini smoke machine. I chose to use the LEDs despite the character not really having lights, other than its eyes. I went against using both red and soft white eye LEDs; as the character's eyes could change from white/yellowish glowing eyes to his eyes being red. There are 2 LEDs inside the the head right at the back of its mouth opening. I wanted it to look like his mouth was slightly open and light was glowing from the thin slit I left for the mouth opening… fail.
Upper legs are another ball joint that would not fit together as designed so the ball itself had to be cut so that the builder can epoxy it all back together. Don't forget to put vaseline petroleum jelly (any oil) so the epoxy does not stick where it is not wanted. You don’t want to accidentally glue all the ball joints in place… unless that’s your plan.
Did the usual after printing… epoxy parts together, prime, sand, fill, sand, prime, wet sand 320, paint prep wipe, gloss color of dark gray, polish in powdered graphite, gloss clear coat, graphite powder again, gloss clear… the more clear coat, the more graphite coat the darker the finished product. If you start with gloss black as the top-coat, then graphite you’ll be close to a chrome finish.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE RETAINER_RING.stl BE PRINTED FAIRLY STRONG. IT IS BASICALLY HOLDING UP EVERYTHING.
The stand is an old shipping frame from a 4-post lift I had delivered. 2 pieces of 3/8” rebar bent to support the full weight (depending on how heavy you print yours) and making a spring type support, the rebar slides into two pipe pieces (at the base) with the same inside diameter as the rebar (make sure it’s a tight fit with heavy walls). The support parts are fairly simple to figure out but keep in mind to smooth out the tip of the 3/8” rebar that goes into the printed support. Keep the last four inches of rebar straight to match the printed support ring channel. Might want to print the support ring thing with 4 or more walls and decent infill percentage.
I do not know print times. I do not know how much filament will be needed. I used Creality PLA dark gray. The clear filament manufacturing/company name escapes me.